Javed located in District Neemuch is perhaps one of the few place where the wax resist process is used to produce the double sided indigo dyed Nandana print. Nandana is the name of the print which represents the mango form in a number of variations. It could be a small mango with leaves as in this case or a big Buta made up of small flowers, leaves and stem or just a smaller mango on its own.
The base is always an indigo dyed blue-black white the Datta or filler blocks use the white areas. The spacing of blocks is tighter towards the end piece and more widely distributed in the body portion.
The Nandana motif is worn largely by the tribals or windows of the mahajan community as Ghaghra or skirts or as a veil worn much like the sari. Other items produced are the pagdi or Saafa turban cloths and Angochhis or children’s covering cloth. Around the early seventies, a strong decline had set in due to the migration of the tribals in search of employment which also affected their traditional Mode of dress.
Javed has become synonymous with the Nandana for it was the main trade centre, apart from being a major printing town as well. Unit the nineteen sixties there were about a hundred and fifty families of printers in Javed alone Today not more than four families are printing in Javed.
The main motifs are:
||Mirch buti (Chilli motif)
||Chapakali buti(Flower motif)
||Amba buti (Mango motif)
||Khajoor buti (Date plam motif)
A very interesting feature amongst printers here is the use of a particular flower motif placed at the end of a Thaan after a hand drawn line in wax resist. This acts as a trade mark by which the discerning buyer recognizes a particular printer.
Traditionally a very heavy long lasting fabric was used for printing. Now anything upto 24s count power loom fabric is used. At first the fabric is rubbed in two or three times with Arandi oil to penetration Earlier this was repeated seven to eight times and the colour was brighter and faster, but this is no loger economical. Nest, a mixture of resin was and oil which prevents cracking is applied in the areas where a resist is required with four inch deep, carved teak-wood blocks, which carry enough wax for at least four impressions. The wax is procured from Hoshiarpur.
The fabric is then treated with a Harada solution which acts as a mordent while giving it a Khaki coloured base. Then four or five dips are given in the indigo vat for a blue –black tone. This is only possible off, if it was subjected to as many dips. Nowadays, printers are using an ordinary blue dye with a chemical indigo topping, using only a kilogram of indigo for a thousand meters.
Thereafter, the wax is removed by boiling and the out line and filter blocks are applied for the motifs in alizarine which is revealed on red, a non-fast colour is given for a pinkish tone.
The fabric lengths and widths very between 5.00 mts. by 1.02 mts.to 9.00 mts by 89 cms. Catering to the different requirements of women of various ages and communities.
Efforts are on to encourage indigo block printing at Javed and the results can be seen in a variety of new materials like chiffon, doria bearing the traditional motifs of ‘amba’or ’mirchi’.